Ujjain , abode of Shiva , the Greenwich of India ( first meridian of longitude and the Tropic of Cancer pass through this city ), which was host to the 2016 Simhastha Kumbhmela. Photographs, vague snippets of conversations and pictures riles me towards the methodological madness, that's synonym with Kumbhmela. Curiosity killed the cat , but this blind cat's vision was unfolded , by the 3 prongs of the Trishul - Knowledge , Experience and Observation.
Knowledge
A simple , why is the Ujjain Mela called Simhastha Kumbh vis a vis Kumbh Mela , began the quest to gain as much information as I could , which was an amalgamation of facts, mingled with fiction, to give it that enlightened aura !
From the theories that have been handed over , Adi Shankaracharya held the first Kumbh Mela at Haridwar, somewhere in the 8th-century AD. To understand the reason behind Kumbh, we have to travel through time to that period in history.
Akhara.
Somewhere around the 8th century AD, Bharat aka India , became the focal point for invaders ( Islamic invasions & more) , plundering through the copious wealth and rich spiritual culture. Many monks became the targets of brutal attacks. It was also during this time that the Mimamsa school, entrenched strict ritualism & ridiculed monasticism - many such orthodox schools of Hindu philosophy & heterodox traditions like Buddism, Jainism,and few others, were moving away from Vedanta. It was then that, Adi Shankaracharya, took it upon himself to safe guard and re- establish our Vedic tradition , by establishing the monastic Ascetic's into two categories.
Adi Shankaracharya, consolidated & revived the doctrine of Advaita Vedanta , establishing the importance of monastic life , as mentioned in the Brahma Sutra,Upanishad & Bhagwat Gita - unifying various aspects of Hinduism to the monastic tradition of single staff renunciation ( Ekadandi sanyasi). He organised, a section of the Ekadanti monastics , to safe guard the scriptures , to bring awareness & carry forward the Vedantic teachings.These were the Shastradhari (scripture-bearers) or Intelligentsia, on the Guru Parampara discipline.
To protect the Shastradhari , Adi Shankaracharya assembled the monks , who had gone through the vigorous discipline of the highly indomitable Naga Sadhu's , to create a Spiritual / religious military regiment, Astradhari (weapon-bearers) or warriors , to fight off the invaders and protect our culture, our heritage, and the monks. Kushti Akhara's were set up for them to be trained in weaponry & other forms of combat.
Today , Akhara refer to training / teaching, yoga and martial arts , or a monastery for religious renunciation, headed by various Ascetic's,
A worlds biggest Spiritual Assemblage of Ascetic's, Traders & Devotee's
As envisioned by Adi Shankaracharya , Kumbh became the largest spiritual gathering, of the Shrashtadhari , inviting other spiritual leaders , educated ascetics for discussions and debate on Hindu culture, Vedic tradition & knowledge. A spiritual get-together, where doctrines were debated and standardised.
The Ashtadhari Akhara were paramount, considering , they were in charge of protecting the entire gathering.
Kumbh became a mega mela , the perfect business opportunity , making it a commercial event , giving traders/ artisans, an ideal ground to showcase and sell their products.
Devotees came for Darshan, a direct, candid connect. They came to see and experience both, the religious and the secular aspect of the event. The highlight being the holy dip and the open communication and blessings of the Swami's/ Sadhu's , the interaction's with the spiritual and religious leaders, to accentuate spiritual growth.
Why were Haridwar, Allahabad, Nasik and Ujjain chosen to be the venue's?
According to popular legend of medieval Hindu mythology, the origin of the festival can be found in the ancient legend of samudra manthan ( ocean churning). The legend tells of a battle between the Devas and Asuras for Amrit( Nectar) , the elixir of immortality. While one story says that it was while churning the ocean that 4 drops fell on the Mela's earthly sites , another says, During samudra manthan, Amrit was produced and placed in a kumbha (pot). To prevent the Asuras from seizing the Amrit, a celestial carrier flew away with the pot , spilling drops of the Amrit at four places - the Kumbh sites.
The name Kumbh thus comes from this mythological pot of elixir. Also, it is the zodiac sign of Kumbh ( Aquarius in English), in which ,Jupiter resides , during the Haridwar Mela.
Busted myth : According to what I have read , so far, the first mention of Kumbh is at Haridwar. Around the same time, Allahabad started a Mela , which got fashioned on the lines of Haridwar. Nasik, surfaced sometime in the 16th century. It's in the 18th century that Ujjain Simhastha, an adaptation of Nasik Simhastha, is mentioned, when the Maratha ruler Ranoji Shinde invited Ascetic's from Nasik to Ujjain. Both Nasik and Ujjain adopted the kumbh myth( who started this, is still a mystery) and made it a part of their legend. However, the elements of the story have become significant & integral part of symbolism at Kumbh. For example: Pitcher/ Kumbh - symbolises churning of the spiritual awakening with the illustrious gathering of learned teachers/ guru, amongst all.
Planet and Zodiac significance
As per legend- It is believed that one day and night in heaven makes one human year. The fight between Gods and Demons went on for twelve days and twelve nights equal to twelve human years. That is why Kumbh mela is celebrated every twelve years.
The logic which holds, although how it came to being, is something I couldn't find - Ancient Hindu mythology, believed that some planets which affect the destiny of the human race align every 12 years and the Purna Kumbh Mela is held exactly during the time of this powerful planetary alignment. The Purna Kumbha is organised by turns at Haridwar, Allahabad , Nasik and Ujjain.
The location, the duration of the Mela's ( Ardh & Purna) and the time of the auspicious holy dip is decided by the ascetics who jointly study the planetary/ astrological positions of zodiac position of the Sun, Moon and Jupiter and agree upon the location of this observance.
The distinction of being called Simhastha (Kumbh) @ Nasik and Ujjain, is because Leo( Simha , in Sanskrit ) takes prominence in the placement of the stars. At Ujjain it falls every 12 years, which is why this Kumbh holds such distinction.
Snana - the Holy Dip
According to Hindu scriptures, the sacred River is source of all Life. She is considered the manifestation of the divine female power, Shakti. She is alive , possessing extraordinary power, purifying anything that comes her way. Therefore she is Revered, Prayed to & Blessings seeked.
As per legend , it is due to the planetary line up of stars, that the rivers are believed to turn back into the same prehistoric Nectar ( Samudra Manthan) . This climactic moment of each Kumbh, gives pilgrims the chance to bathe in the essence of purity, auspiciousness, and immortality. One can speculate , that it is during this time that the Ground water is at its zenith , of some geological Alchemy, reinforcing the belief, that the purity of this water dispels disease & cleanse all sins ( eg. Hot Springs).
There are two main Shahi ( Rajyogi), first is at the commencement and second, at the culmination of the Kumbh. These are considered the 2 most powerful Snan's ,as per the stars. These are also the two times when the Ahkara's are seen in full regalia. While there are few other dates for the Kumbh Snan, they are not as illustrious but effective !
Bathing order as per tradition : The ashtadhari Nagas usually lead, followed by , Shashtradhari Juna Akhara ( Mahamandaleshwar Sw Avdheshananda) , Niranjani Akhara , Mahanirvani Akhara , followed by other noted Akhara's , namely , Nirmohi Akhara, Shri Dattatreya Akhara , Guru Hanuman Akhara & the many Solitary/ Unattached monks.
Peshwai( Procession)
The Peshwai, is the procession, which represent's the dominant presence of individual Akhara's. The visual magnificence - Heads of Akharas join on silver throne, elephants... armed Sadhu's on horses performing acrobatic skills and breathtaking display of their martial skills with the help of swords, and such , establish the Akhara's eminence, followed by devotee's , who danced in gay abundance. This procession is then followed by the visitor's, locals. The procession begins at various locations ending at respective individual Ahkara.
My Riveting Experience & my tad bit of Observation! ( 19-22th April)
There are many an element that I was not a part off, having reached before the Kumbh began , and leaving the city on the day of the first Snan, while the city continued its daily step towards the end of the Kumbh.
Will my words do justice to what I experienced, I really do not know, all I want is the essence of these four days to come through. Kumbh cannot be explained , cannot be written about , it just needs to be experienced, with each of us coming with our own equation, understanding, connect and calling of the mela, which moves from the superlative to the ugly.. to each his own , and this is mine!
Peshwai was my first introduction to the Kumbh. A word that was a tongue twister initially, till I finally managed and understood the meaning! We missed out the first few major Akhara's , however the few we saw were enthralling, For someone like me who shies from crowds, it felt like the entire city had decended at Tower clock Square ( a landmark by itself & thoroughfare for every Peshwai) , Or , If I say, that an ant would have trouble finding a path through this populous, specially for the Kinnar ( transgender) Akhara- I wouldn't be off the mark! What an experience that was. The first time entrants to Kumbh, they stole the show, with their patience , their simplicity, their spartan grandeur. Unrecognised by the Akhara parishad, some help though from the establishment , the people took over. Their curiosity coupled with their faith & belief , gave this Peshwai it's specialness , making the Kinnar's a force to reckon with , be it our mythology or their collective strength in today's time.
What absolutely stayed me, how the crowds came in throngs and yet dispersed with silent grace. Every place was crowded and yet , there was space (no matter what I felt and described earlier).
The local's opened their door, accommodating the onlookers during the Peshwai, into their restaurant's, shops- free sugarcane juice, water , making sure they were hydrated. Outside many home's and shops, Urn's filled with water, lemonade , even biscuits and food packets ,during the entire Kumbh ( which I was a witness to ).
Snapshots:
Withstanding the scorching Sun at about 45 degree and more, two scooty's, niece and nephew as guides, and I am off on the cruise to the Unknown. One of the kids comment when we start, " As of now , all you will see are toilets everywhere!", which does not escape my notice , since it was the beginning of Kumbh and many Akhara's were still in the process of completion , some still to begin. Interesting, that the toilet complex , the water storage facilities - hygiene and sanitation was definitely amongst the establishments primary concerns.
Ride through the outskirts and within the city & I lost count of the innumerable Akhara's ( camps) and the acres and acres of land that they had occupied. As mentioned by a friend , farmers ( local's) were compensated for the land taken by the government , allocate to the Akhara's, for as much time as their land was occupied.
There were more than 500 Mahamandeleshwar's with their own camps,which fall under Ekdanti. Many a rules & precautions were flaunted - part of the system, where the establishment has to double its vigilante.
While a few were simple , basic tents , living quarters & congregation area - most were plush , you could have been at a resort with the kind of amenities, lavish, affluent - mega ornamental camps, pandas & tents. Each Akhara outdoing the other. The one that stood out was the Juna Akhara, headed by Sw Avdeshananda - was built like a fortress, formidable.
The significance of Donation's by devotee's was eminent through these camps.
Their is a business module at play here, capable enough to outrun any business house!
Then the cars, oh my oh my - the luxury cars in these camps , name the brand & you would find a model !
Complete contrast are the sparse tents , in the area allotted to the Naga sadhu. Free Spirit's that they are, they may join & stay in different Akhara's , some Sadhu's ,occupy land near the ghats. This is what attracted us & that is the direction we took. Two lanes, numerous individual Spartan tents, lining both sides of the lanes , giving the onlookers a complete view into their tent. Sadhu's with their chela's ( disciples), sitting and chatting with visitor's, doing Havana, giving blessings - we are flummoxed with the diversity of the their attire , their living style, their practices.
Had I got more time , would have liked to have picked their brain on what drives them to being who they are - the realm of their spiritual journey - beyond the body, matter, intellect ..... beyond the 5th dimension!
Snapshots:
Late afternoon, we take an E-Rickshaw for a drive along the ghats. Drive across the bridge , that overlooks the dam & Lal pool ghat , making our way to say hello to Mangalnath, the temple dedicated to Mangal ( Mars) , at the Mangalnath ghat. Charming, serene setting , the temple is known for its horoscopic importance, with the silverish gold , Ram ( the male goat, vehicle of Mangal, as per mythology) , stealing the show!
Evening slips in , the lights come on and the entire city has a mystical look. Neelganga talaab, is our next stop. As per traditions, the ascetic's ( Akhara) offer prayer at Neelganga talaab, before entering the city. We are welcomed at the talaab by two enormous bells , with the evening lights dazzling on the water, the havan kund still warm. Adjoining is the Gau ghat, very few people, seems like the Kumbh Fever still hasn't touched this ghat! Our last stop is, Ram ghat for the evening Arati. It is a photographers enchantment , as it is, for the devotee's gone for their oblution & prayers. Every temple , every home on both sides of the ghats, the water fountains, vividly lit , strobe lights flashing, giving a celebratory look. Arati is hypnotic , with conch blowing , jingle of the bells, aroma of the incense sticks & camphor, waving of the large diya's ( around 7) by the priest's all in complete sync, the chant - enhanced by the prismatic reflections dancing on the water, sadhu's & devotee's taking the dip, the collective intensity of so many , on the same path of discovering, offering & learning , create's a sublime space. We sit at the bank of the river, feet in the water ,
soaking in this astral energy.
Walking around the various ghats is a visual delight, the innumerable temples, watching the Sadhu's with their matted hair, a few with chillum, a whiff of the weed, different attires, their trendy bikes, a few immersed in their specific practice. The medley of visitor's , with a few like us, leading our own Peshwai , creating music with paper trumpets & Dumru's! Naga Sadhu's with their chillum is a regular sights at most ghats , reading someone's hand, predicting future or just chatting with people, about anything and everything.
Snapshots:
The Darshan by devotee's of their spiritual Guru's - individual & group interactions about spirituality , religion, sadhana ( practices) and more with Sadhu's/ Swami's was gaining momentum. The Langar's at the Akhara's, for everyone had begun much before we reached. The Discourse's & Havan's were just beginning to happen. And the long long line for Mahankal temple, just did not let up, even when walking on the ground was like walking on burning coal - that is some Devotion!
Mahankal @ Night , Lucida of the Kumbh, completely floored me. Anyone who did Darshan during the day , missed out on the most euphoric hours. The lane to the temple is abuzz with activity, shops selling trinkets and such, food stall and restaurants , the decorated camels - ride anyone ? The illumination was nothing like I have seen before, the radiance , the energy was so different. The festive feel was in abundance. Our Darshan was a breeze. It was like Shiva , himself, was waiting for us. No line, handful of people, a good tete a tete with the Lord, no one asking you to move on - what a dream of a Darshan!
As seen and told by friends, Ram ghat is the place to be for the Shahi Snan. The Kumbh which begins with an elaborate arrival of the Ahkara's (Peshawai) - ends with the same flamboyance at Ram ghat on the final Shahi Snan. . Ascetic's & Group's from individual Ahkara 's , move towards River Ksipra for the Shahi Snan. Crowds on either side of the road , decorated with Rangoli, cheering, chanting, throwing flowers at the Processions. In accordance with the tradition of the Snan, the fearsome Naga Sadhu's lead - Esoteric with their ash covered bodies, adorned with garlands, some naked, some with minial clothings, wielding their weapons & dumru's.
Once the Ascetic's leave , It's the millions of visitors who follow, soaking in the magnetic energy , becoming a part of the auspicious holy dip.
Enticed as I am with all the happenings at Kumbh, Shahi Snan is a must ! Intimated by large crowd, we stay away from Ram ghat and go to Gau ghat instead. I go as a witness to this paramount event, Undecided that I am on the Snan, which shall be a last minute call for me, all pending on the crowd intensity & how the water looks! Let's just say, i shall wait for the calling , go with the flow on the moment !
It's 4 am on 22nd Apr, and the enormity of the crowd stupefies us. Most walking towards the ghat of their choice , some sitting on carts ! The luminous full Moon, gives Gau ghat an esoteric guise - lit just enough, the various Shiv lingam's on the ghat have a spectral hue! We are spellbound & trapped by the enthusiasm of this wondrous confluence - the water auroral , strewn with flowers & floating diya's as the adherent's take a dip , stand waist deep in water, praying, chanting. Kshipra's blessing touches everyone.
And then, we spot an empty patch , just an elderly lady & her grand daughter. The lady looks at me , undecided as I stand on the last visible step, while the rest have already gone in the water & stheatres handful of water on her palm & sprinkle's it on our group , saying, "I am a Brahmin, it's auspicious to get blessings from a Brahmin". She then takes my hand, guides me into the water. That's it, its like a personal invitation from Kshipra. A complete immersion( as is the way of the Snan) in the cold water, a small prayer for everyone , and I am out, elated, to the eternal conviction of Snan , of Kshipra. Inspite of all my apprehension's, this experience was surreal! Will I do it again, probably not, however for me, this is an actuality, that will be synonym with Kumbh. A thought that flashes - The magnetic energy of Kshipra ( and every River during Kumbh) , will continue to enforce its sanctitude!
These four days have satiated my inquisitiveness regarding the Kumbh, a curtain raiser, which has sown the seed for Haridwar Kumbh 2021!
KumbhNote:
Kumbh has become a major Hindu pilgrimage. Bringing together the Believers, the non believers, the inquisitives, Swami's with cutting edge technology, net savvy, the social welfare societies , the local sellers with their trinklet & artefacts , political activists, the individual ascetics and organisations - the range increases with every kumbh, making it the Media's Facination for many a stories , the vibrant colours , the spectacular sadhu's, stunning akhadas's ..... the list is endless !
Kumbh brings to its fold, all age groups. It resonates Faith, Devotion. The essence is spiritual & religious, myth & mythology , science & belief with spark's of glamour & entertainment.It's this amalgamation that makes Kumbh a phenomenon.
Highlights:
Some of the Kinnar's were beauties - with the poise they carried themselves , they would give any model a run for their money!
At the Naga Sadhu lane, we could not spot the Naga Sadhu's , pictures of whom we had seen on FB. So, we stopped a cop and described a few Naga Sadhu's The cop had this look of - oh ho another of those one's and tells us , we haven't seen them either - they must be on FB , Allahbad or the Himalaya's!
Locals & a few from around, sit on the Naga lane sidewalk, selling their trinkets , puja material & more. Horse's ready to take you on a trot of the lane!
Nectar is, sips of - ice cold Coke , jazzed up with lemon juice, black salt & cold coffee with icecream for the kids, at the end of a blazing , approx 50 km exploration of the city!
One of the Naga Sadhu's, with trendy dark glares, looks at us- I couldn't help but say - 'Yo ' & his instant response - ' Yo , how about a picture' !
We see a deer next to a Naga Sadhu , wondering why the sadhu would have a stuffed deer , we move closer & lo behold, the deer moved, it was alive ..... and then a picture was a must !
A lady Naga, full on head gear, sitting with her disciples, what a stunning women she was. The pictures hardly did her justice.
From the industrialist, to the actors to the singers - they came - celebraties from all field added the glamour to this entire fervency. To add quality to their own life and to add some entertainment for the visitors!
Akhara , no longer represents the place where, Pehlwan's like Dara Singh do Kushti !
For a week , there was a Pain in my back, which disappeared after the Snan - was this psychological or does the water really have magic - an unanswered question, bordering on Faith !
Just in case ........ other Components- For the curiously , like-minded !
~As the importance of Kumbh grew, it began to witness visits of all sections of Hindu religion, spiritual leaders from the Shiva sect ( Trident wielding renunciation, Trishuldhari sanyasis , worshippers of Shiva), Vairagi sect( Vishnu ), Kalpawasi sect ( Brahma) also gathered, with Shree Panch ( Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Shakti, Ganesh) becoming the Central Admisntration body at the Kumbh. Sadhu's from every part of India showed their presence - the Urdhwavahur's( who put their bodies through severe austerities), the Parivrajaka's( who take a vow of Silence), Shirshasin's( who stand on their head), Kalpavasi's( who have bath thrice a day, to name a few, The initial Kumbh mela also saw a few Christian missionaries as visitors.
~It is still a mystery as to when the Naga Sadhu's arrive at the Kumbh. They arrive & leave, like a blanket of darkness, unseen & unheard by anyone.
~To this day , the Monk warriors, preserve the traditional martial arts of India, in addition to their spiritual practices. They have a special mention in history , for being a dominant force, fighting the invaders side by side with various armies. They hold the top notch rank at Kumbh, because of their prominent contribution based on their vigorous & strict inculcation. Although they still carry weapons, the modern Naga sadhu rarely practice any form of fighting, besides wrestling.
~As legend goes, Ram Ghat holds precedence, since this is where , Shraddh rites were performed by Lord Ram, for his father, King Dashrath.
~The most auspicious of the Rivers is Ganga. The Indian emperor Akbar called Ganga, the "water of immortality" and always traveled with a supply. The British East India Co. used only Ganges water on its ships during the three-month journey back to England , because it stayed "sweet and fresh."
~Shahi Snan is followed by the Ascetic's visiting the temple & a few, who might give Darshan to their devotee's, before heading back to their camps.
~Once plot alloted to the Ahkara's , it's only after a Bhoomi puja is done , can they start the construction of their campsite.
~To define the teachings, of various aspects of Vedanta, the Shastradhari monks were grouped under Dashanami order( 10 titles/ names ) , who were then grouped under 4 Matha's . Each of these Matha's was the bearer of one Veda. ( these Matha's continue their dominance of Vedanta ).
The title, as per the Dashnami order, are appended to the monks name at his initiation, as assigned to the 4 matha's.
The subdivision thus took on a wholesome picture , giving it the following clarity.
*Jyothimath Matha at Badrinath - Atharva Veda- North (Title: Giri, Parvata, Sagara)
*Sardana Matha at Sringeri - Yajur Veda - South (Title: Saraswati, Puri, Bharati
*Govardhan Matha at Puri - Rig Veda - East (Title: Vana , Aranya)
*Kalimantan Matha at Dwarka - Sama Veda - West ( Title: Tirtha , Asrama )
Although the Dashamani order is associated with Adi Shankaracharya, their belief and practice depend on the matha they are grouped under. A few remain partly or fully independed in their belief , practice, affiliations and remain outside the official control of the Adi Shankaracharya matha.
Mahamandaleshwar (or Maha Mandaleshwar) is a title used by some monks of the Dashanami (dasha = ten, nami = names) order , when he has been elevated by his peers to the highest level of traditional, Hindu spiritual guardianship. ( Normally at the Kumbh Mela).Literally, "Mahamandaleshwar" means "Superior of great and/or numerous monasteries" or "Superior of a religious district or province" (maha = great, mandala = district, ishwara = head, sovereign).
In the Ashtadhari system, the Mahamandaleshwaras, served with the paramilitary regiments,as general.
~As legend goes : Ancient use of the word Akhara can be found in the Mahabharata, which mentions Jarasandha's Akhara at Rajgir. Legendary figures like Parashurama and Agastya are credited as the founders of the early martial akhara.
~As per the planetary line up:
The Purna Kumbh Mela, occurs every 12 years at a given site.
The Ardh Kumbh Mela occurs every 6 years.
The Maha Kumbh, most auspicious of all, occurs after completion of 12 Purna Kumbh Melas i.e. every 144 years.
For the ones with knowledge & interested in Astrology:-
Haridwar @ RiverGanga : Sun in Aries , Jupiter in Aquarius
Allahbad( Prayaga) @ the Sangam ( confluence) of River's Ganga Yamuna Saraswati (triveni) : Sun in Capricorn, Jupiter in Tauras OR Sun & Moon in Capricorn, Jupiter in Aries
Nasik @ River Godavari: Jupiter, Sun & Moon enter Cancer, OR Jupiter in Leo
Ujjain@ River Kshipra : Sun is in zodiac Aries and Jupiter in zodiac Leo. OR Jupiter sun and moon in Libra
~In 1789, after a clash between Shaivite sanyasi's and Vaishnavite sanyasi's at Nasik, wanting the prominence by being the first for the holy dip, the Maratha Peshwai ordered the 2 groups to bathe at separate places ( not sure if the same is followed at Allahabad & Haridwar ) which followed into Ujjain, where the Peshwa imposed the rule that the sanyasis would bathe on one side and the bairagis on the opposite.
Links that helped me with informations ......
This link had an interesting perception on why the water takes on such power.
